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Origins: Bircheveth (1190). Headland overgrown by birch. From birce heafod. Birheuet 1200, Byrkeheveht 1259, Berkeheved 1275.

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Birkenhead  (origins see above) lies on the Wirral, opposite side of the River Mersey to Liverpool and next to Wallasey.  This is mainly an industrial town but with many places of beauty and rarity. Bidston Hill overlooks Birkenhead, Wallasey, Moreton, Leasowe and you can see easily the Welsh Hills in the distance. Atop Bidston Hill stands the Observatory, the Lighthouse and the Windmill, landmarks well known to locals and to drivers along the motorway that now runs along its base.. Once an area of good housing for the more affluent persons of the region, it has now been eclipsed by the building of the Ford Estate, a typical council estate with its associated problems.  Did you know that Central Park, Birkenhead, was the model for Central Park New York? Famous personages include: Freddie Starr, Lewis Collins  (who died in 2013), Glenda Jackson, Elvis Costello, Patricia Routledge, Daniel Craig. Population is just over 100,000 and growing. I moved to Birkenhead, from Moreton, after meeting my wife in 1975, to live in Rock Ferry. We lived in an Victorian oasis of old houses and trees known as Egerton Park.

Before Norman times, most of the Wirral consisted of natural woodlands and open spaces with farms and cottages. Small areas of the woodland can still be seen at Bidston, Storeton and Eastham.  In those days a single cart track ran northwards from Chester towards the River Mersey to a point where the river was little more than half a mile wide. Early in the 12th century, Benedictine monks from Chester earned a living by trading with the merchants in Liverpool and operating a ferry across the river at this narrow point. They built the Priory  here so that they could avoid having to travel daily from Chester. It was originally known as Morton Priory on some maps. On a 1611 map is it marked as 'Morton Priory (decayed)'. Although not actually in Morton, (or Moreton cum Lingham,) the lands which sustained the Priory were, hence the name. When Birkenhead came into existence much later, the name changed, mainly on maps, to reflect its 'new' location. The Priory ran the ferry across the river to a small fishing hamlet known as Leverpole (lever being seaweed). And they jealousy protected the monopoly. Local history expert, Paul Booth, believes that the name 'morton priory' never actually existed except in some cartographers mind. As he is a clever sod (!!) I am now dithering into 'don't know any more'. In this instance I readily bow to Paul's knowledge of the facts.

There were strict forestry laws at the time and there were several occasions when the monks were re-called to Chester to defend themselves on various related charges. By the year 1332, it was recognized how important the monk's ferry was to trade between Liverpool and Chester that Edward III granted the Priors exclusive ferry rights. At this same time, the inhabitants of Chester were becoming increasingly alarmed that the forest was acting as shelter for outlaws and, by 1376, most of The Wirral had been de-forested by order of the Earl of Chester (son of Edward III).

The monks at the Priory continued until 1536 when the Priory was closed by order of Henry VIII's bailiff, Randle Arrowsmith, and the monks returned to Chester. The Priory has remained closed ever since and has, naturally, suffered from the ravages of both time and developers. Nevertheless much of it remains intact and it has undergone some restoration work and is now open to the public.

The industrialization of Birkenhead (and, subsequently, most of the East side of The Wirral) began in 1824 when William Laird established a boiler works and a shipbuilding yard on the banks of Wallasey Pool and laid out the beginnings of the town at Hamilton Square. Although the population was only 109 in 1800, by 1830 it had risen to over 2,500. The opening of the railway line to Chester in 1837 and the establishment of docks and a tidal basin in 1843 was the beginning of the modern Birkenhead as it is today. the northern border of birkenhead lay on Wallasey Pool. This was a tidal inlet and, on the facing north bank, lay Seacombe & Poulton. During the industrial revolution this was a cess pit in all but name. People forget that what is thrown out to the tide invariably returns and the smell and sanitation was horrible. It took an act of Parliament to clear that up!!

*the old Viking name for the area was Birki-Hofuo - Headland growing with birch trees. Later names, more commonly used were: Byrkeheveht (birken haven)(1259) and Birkheued (1260). But there was no settlement here as such it was an 'area name' - The Priory arrived around 1150, but its lands were in Moreton. Source: Viking Mersey by Stephen Harding. A 1611 map shows the priory as Morton Priory.

Birkenhead's Central Park

The opening of the Park 5th April 1847
(from the Illustrated London News)

An American view of Birkenhead Park

The park, which was thrown open to all, is a splendid enclosure, and has been formed at a cost of £127,775. A refreshment tent was fitted up, 170 feet long; and various other booths, camps, &c were erected. Cricket, football and other athletic games, rural sports, and divers amusements, occupied the holiday throng in that vast and picturesque arena. An efficient committee of the most respectable tradesmen had undertaken the superintendence of this portion of the day's proceedings, and nearly all the tradesmen of the town, in addition to a holiday, agreed to give each person in their employ half-a-day's wages. The programme of these sports comprised sack-races, pig-chases, pole-climbing, and, with a variety of other rare and spleen-curing sports, "a foot-race for women of all ages!". The far-famed Lancashire Bell-ringers were engaged, and were placed in the Boat-house, on one of the beautiful serpentine lakes; and the effect of their melodious notes added considerably to the interest of the scene.

The new Market, on which a sum of £26,000 has been expended, likewise presented its attractions. Of this we gave an engraving last week. On the east quay of the new Docks, facing the river, six pieces of ordnance were placed, for the purpose of firing salutes; the cannons being under the management of a detachment of the Royal Artillery from Chester Castle.

No procession was formed, but the quays of the new Docks were lined with the pensioners, the several clubs and societies with their bands, flags, &c.; and, after the opening of the Docks, they proceeded to the Park, to be in waiting to receive Lord Morpeth. A stand was erected on the west side of the Bridge-end Dock, capable of holding 1200 persons.

THE BREAKFAST

For this entertainment four of the warehouse-rooms, each 140 feet long and 50 feet wide, were beautifully and tastefully fitted up with pink and white drapery, by Mr. Shaw 81mw, upholsterer, of Birkenhead, assisted by Mr. Hornblower and Mr. Brine, architects. The suite included reception, retiring, and refreshing, ball and banquet rooms. In the former, a magnificent cascade, furnished, by Mr. Highfield, Mr. Jackson’s manager, sent forth a silvery and refreshing jet, amidst a profusion of choice conservatory plants and flowers. The walls of all the rooms were lined with alternate white and pink, arranged in the Grecian tent style, and finished round the top with Roman drapery. The prevalence of pink shed a rich and warm light into the rooms. The ball-room was furnished with an orchestra in the centre, its walls decorated with four stars. The banqueting-room had a very gay appearance. In addition to drapery decorations, the roof was decked with evergreens. A high table, 140 feet long, ran along the side, at which the Chairman, with the distinguished guests, were arranged. Transversely were about twenty lower tables.

About 600 persons were present. The chair was taken by Mr. Bailey, Jun., M.P. supported by Lord Morpeth, Earl of Lincoln, Lord Monteagle, and other eminent individuals.

The usual loyal toasts having been proposed,

Lord Morpeth was received with great acclamation. He assured them he felt sincerely the kind and cordial manner in which the toasts had been received. Ever since he had been called to that office which he now held, of First Commissioner of Woods and Forests, and which connected him with the property of the Crown, he had felt the strongest interest in the rising fortunes of Birkenhead. They were probably aware that besides the general interest which the Crown might be supposed to take in all that was represented by the abstract idea of its subjects, it had also motives not so purely abstract or disinterested for meaning well to the port and town of Birkenhead. He avowed this the more readily, in as much as it was quite obvious that the proportion In which the undertakings here set on foot could become profitable must be according to the degree In which they were made available to the accommodation of commerce and the public good. The Chairman had alluded to his (Lord Morpeth’s) visit to America, and he could only say, In reply, that he hoped the ports of Birkenhead would be instrumental to the relief of an afflicted country by importing from them the crops which line the rich banks of the Ohio and the innumerable streams of the mighty Mississippi. He hailed it as a good omen, and hoped that the first use of the ample basin through which their vessel that day had for the first time glided, and all those striking and startling specimens of engineering skill and admirable natural resources by which It was surrounded, would be consecrated to the admitting the surplus harvests of foreign fields, and make provision for the bread that keeps alive.

Next in the progress of time - he hoped in the course of the ensuing autumn - they would be able to bear their part in accommodating the timber trade and without proceeding through the long vistas of usefulness and enterprise, and of the success which he trusted would attend on Birkenhead, he hoped that the proceedings of that day eloquently foreshadowed an auspicious commencement, and a powerful impulse. He would only express a hope that the best feeling would always prevail between them and the great city immediately opposite them - Liverpool - which divided with London the supremacy of the commerce of the world and, so London could not but feel benefited by the improvements of Southwark, as Liverpool could never have cause to repine at the prosperity of Birkenhead; and, even should the majestic Mersey become lined with a double line of docks, be trusted that there would never he more than room enough for the corn that waves in the western hemisphere. He trusted that they had that day forged another link in that chain of amity which ought to connect England with America. While they remembered that Rendel had constructed their Docks, they had also had a Paxton to lay out their promenades, and they were one of the first cities which had given a sympathetic attention to the great subject of the public health. He hoped that, when the pageant of the day had passed away, it would still leave them ground to remember that it had not been a triumph which gained ita trophies from the strife of nations or the engines of destruction.

Lord Lincoln rose amid cheers to propose "The Commerce of the Mersey;" and expressed a hope that the only rivalry that would exist between Birkenhead and Liverpool would be for their common interest. The Oregon, a large American vessel, had that day entered their harbour, freighted from abroad with guano, to fertilise the broad acres of Cheshire.    Lord Menteagie proposed "Manchester and the Manufacturing Interests," and dwelt emphatlcally on the improvements that had been effected in the sanatory system of the districts, and remarked upon the great advantage it would be to other towns to follow, in this respect, the example of Liverpool and Birkenhead.

Subsequently, the "Members of the County," the "Chairman," the "Birkenhead Docks," and other toasts of a local character were proposed, and responded to briefly. Mr. Toole officiated as toastmaster, with great spirit.   A special train started from Birkenhead at six, with the visitors from London, and arrived at the Euston terminus at twelve, accomplishing the distance of 212 miles in the short space of six hours, making a total area of space run over during the day of 424 miles, a feat for the first time accomplished in the annals of steam, and ranking amongst its most remarkable achievements.   At seven o’clock there was a magnificent display of fireworks near the Dock gates. At eight o’clock the warehouse-rooms were thrown open for a ball and supper. Horabin’s quadrille band was engaged for the ball, where a novelty was introduced by Mr. Turvey, professor of music, called the "Birkenhead Qnadrilles." The ball was opened, by Mr. J. Bailey, M.P., and Mrs. Shaw, of Arrows; the company were received by Mrs. Bailey.   Medals, commemorative of the opening were struck off, and presented, to Lords Lincoln and Morpeth. The workmen to the number of 2000 had each a day’s pay.  The celebration was attended by vast crowds; 58,000 persons being carried over by the Woodside ferry-boats.

Birkenhead Park is acknowledged to be the first publicly funded park in Britain. It was the forerunner of the Park's Movement and its influence was far reaching both in this country and abroad - most notably on Olmstead's design for Central Park, New York. Designed by Joseph Paxton (later Sir Joseph Paxton) in 1843 and officially opened in 1847 it was an immediate economic and social success. Its history is inseparable from that of Birkenhead town itself. Distanced from the ravages of the Industrial Revolution in Liverpool and the North-West by the physical barrier of the River Mersey, Birkenhead retained its agricultural status until the advent of the steam ferry service in 1820. Ready access from Liverpool now opened up the Wirral for development and prompted the rapid growth of Birkenhead as an industrial centre.

Within ten years the town's population had grown from just over one hundred to two and a half thousand. Recognising the need to exercise control over its development and establish municipal powers, the Government approved the setting up of the Birkenhead Improvement Commission in 1833 after an Act of Parliament. At the same time, in the country as a whole, there was a growing awareness of the detrimental effects of overpopulation and the atrocious living and working conditions to be found in the major industrial areas. This promoted the establishment of various reform movements, including that of the 'Park's Movement'. Its central theory was that by providing open spaces for public use, the well-being of the industrial workforce was improved.

In 1841, alarmed by the exploding population figures, the idea of a public park in Birkenhead was first raised by Mr Isaac Holmes, a Liverpool Councillor. Two years later, empowered by another Improvement Act, the Birkenhead Commissioners created history by purchasing land on which to construct the world's first publicly funded park. The site chosen for the park was part of the Birkenhead Estate, owned by Mr F R Price. The land was low lying, a mixture of fields, marsh and commons, and contained a small farmhouse which was a known beer den where illegal gambling and dog fighting took place. The land was purchased cheaply because of its poor quality. 125 acres were designated for public use, the remaining 60 acres were to be sold for private residential development. The proceeds from the sale of the building plots was sufficient to recoup all the costs incurred by the purchase of the land and the construction of the park.

An Improvement Committee chaired by William Jackson was set up to supervise the development of the park. Joseph Paxton, a Landscape Gardener whose work in Liverpool had brought him to the attention of the Committee, was approached and in August 1843 he was engaged to design and construct the park at a fee of £800. By November 1843 the completed plan of the park and the preliminary sketches for the lodges (drawn up by Paxton's assistant, John Robertson) had been approved. Preparatory work began on the site under the supervision of Edward Kemp - later the Park Superintendent. A young Liverpool architect, Lewis Hornblower, was engaged to supervise the construction of the lodges, and to design and oversee other artifacts and building work within the park.

Major planting of trees and shrubs was carried out during the planting season of Autumn 1844/Spring 1845. Attention was then directed to the establishment of grassland areas. Sixty acres of peripheral land were divided into building plots and sold for private development at two auctions and through estate agents. In order to ensure a degree of uniformity and consistent high standard of development, strict rules were laid down regarding the construction of the dwellings. Any unsold plots of land were eventually absorbed into the public area of the park. For example, the area now known as the Bowling Greens on Park Road North was laid out for bowls and quoits in 1880. The Boothby Ground was purchased from the Boothby Estate as late as 1903.

Work was virtually complete by Autumn 1846 but the official opening of the park was delayed until 5th April 1847, in order to coincide with the opening of the Birkenhead Dock Complex. The park was opened by Lord Morpeth and visited on that day by an estimated 10,000 people. The strength and flexibility of the original design were revealed over the years by the ease with which the park evolved to satisfy the changing demands of its users. From an almost entirely passive function the park absorbed facilities for active sports and large scale events. Commemorative trees were planted, unemployment relief schemes undertaken. Two World Wars intruded onto the park, different buildings and structures erected and then removed or demolished. Some areas such as the area known today as The Sunken Garden changed their nature and their name.

The note about the railings and gates. This was a WW2 propaganda 'con' as much of it was never used for anything, being just scrap.
It was the wrong sort of metal for any use other than railings, gates etc. There is not much you can do with wrought iron!
Also, this image was originally noted as 'during WW2 in August 1945' - the European war finished in May and the Japan war - August 15th.

     

1911 Part image of Birkenhead

Grange and Argyle Wards Birkenhead   www.nls.uk reproduced under licence

Birkenhead Timeline